Ratnakar Upadhayay
Lucknow vo jagah hi jise kabhi na kham hone vali visheshta ke liye jana jata hai. India ke rich history me lucknow bhi shamil hai. Lucknow Chikankari ke sath nawabi khana, Kathak dance, etc also known art me hai. Especially vibhinn kala and culture ka pratik hai. Chikankari kala India ke famous shilp kala me se ek hai. Is shilp kala ko royality ka symbol mana jata hai. Celebrities also is kala ko trend me lane ka kaam karte hai.
Kala Ki History
Chikankari ko India me mughal shasak Jahangir ki patni Nur Jehan ne famous kiya tha. Persian nobles is shilp kala ko India me le kr aye the. Chhaya ka kaam also most important role play karta hai is kala ke trend me. In addition, sui ke kaam me samay aur sanyam ki jarurat hoti hai chikankari ko royal look dene me.
Chikankari Shabd Ki Utpatti
Chikankari shabd ki utpatti Persian shabd ‘chakin’ se hui hai. ‘Chakin ‘ shabd ka arth ek kapde pr najuk pattern banana hota hai. Whereas, kuch theory ke anusar ye shilp Bengal se connected hai. Bengal me iska arth mahin hai. Furthermore, story chikankari se juda hai jisme ‘chikeen’ shabd juda hai. Following the word means pahle Rs 4 is kala ki kimat thi.
Chikankari Ke Lesser Known Facts-
- Chikankari embroidery ke kai patterns and designs hote hai. Jisme Muree, Lerchi, Keelkangan, and Bakhia special hai. Chikankari ka history mughal shasak se juda hai. Therefore embroidery me Mughal architectural theme dekhne ko milta hai.
- Chikankari ki embroidery kapdo ke large range me kiya jata hai. Specially chiffon, muslin, silk, organza, cotton, etc kapde main hai. Earlier, kapdo pr embroidery white thread se ki jati thi. But samay me change and trend ke according thread ke rango me change hua hai.
- Traditionally, chakankari shilp white muslin pr kiya jata hai. But now embroidery ko pastel shades of muslin and cotton pr kiya jata hai. Ise royal aur costly banane ke liye sequin, beads and mirror work ko add kiya jata hai.
- Anjuman movie me lucknow ke chikankari ko highlight kiya gya tha. Ye movie 1986 me release hui thi. Is movie me lucknow chikankari karne wali women ki life ko highlight kiya gya tha.
Chikankari Ka Process
Chikankari kapdo par unique embroidery hoti hai. Isme hard and long process ko karna padta hai. Jisme shamil hai Designing, engraving, block printing, embroidery, washing and finishing too. Firstly kapde ko cut kiya jata hai. Secondly, block print se design modify hota hai. There after, embroidery kiya jata hai. Finally kapde ko wash and finish kiya jata hai.
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